RIGGING TIPS and TRICKS


One of my ProStaffers, Mark Wheeler (aka LandingCrew), from Virginia, created this installation video and posted it on YouTube.  It shows the basic steps for installing a Slider.  A BIG Thank You to Mark for doing this.  Click on the Link to view.

SLIDER Installation How-To

Here are some other tips that may help you enjoy your Slider.

What's with all the holes on the CRADLE and RAILS
The large holes cut weight and help shed water (besides, they look cool!).  The small holes are all attachment points.  You’ll find that the spacing between most of the small holes on the CRADLE, and all of the holes along the RAILS are exactly the same as the spacing used on Pad Eyes (aka deck loops).  Accident?  Nope!  Divine inspiration...probably not that either...but a darn good idea just the same.

What's the best way to attach stuff to the CRADLE platform or RAILS?
The recommended way to attach anything to your SLIDER is stainless steel nuts, bolts and washers.  I highly recommend you put nylon-lock nuts or lock washers on everything.  For smaller things or loose ends (like the tip of my knife sheath) I like Zip-Ties or Tie-Wraps. Just be sure to replace them at least annually because UV eats these things up.

Before I go any further, let's make a distinction between the sides and base of the CRADLE.

The sides are, well, on the side.  They are made of polyethylene, which is likely what your SOT kayak is made of.  It is extremely tough, durable and flexible.  Look closely at the pre-drilled holes and you'll notice they are all countersunk on the inside, and sized to accommodate either 10-24 or 1/4-20 Flat Head Machine Screws.  The countersink allows the flat head screws to sit flush on the inside so as not to interfere with anything you put in the CRADLE.  Feel free to drill more holes in the sides if you wish, just be careful not to weaken any of the points where the cross members join the sides to each other. 

The base (and rails) is made of PVC with a commercial grade UV inhibitor added.  Feel free to drill holes to mount anything you like to the base, but keep these points in mind.  Use flat washers on the underside of the base to help spread the load...the wider the better.  Be mindful of anything that might hang too far below the cradle that might contact the deck and prevent it from sliding.  Do not drill any closer than 1 inch from the front lip of the base.

Can I drill more holes in the CRADLE or RAILS if I need to? - "Absolutely yes" to the CRADLE, "NO" to the RAILS.  Any more holes in the RAILS will weaken them excessively, so please try to make due with the existing holes.  If you want more holes in the sides or base of the CRADLE, have at it!  In fact, many users will find that their tackle box is short enough to leave a fair amount of flat space on the base out front, which is where I prefer to mount my fish finder on a RAM ball.

To move or not to move?
Those Pad Eyes are handy little things, perfect for attaching paddle and rod leashes and such.  Attach them to the RAILS if you want an attachment point that does not move, or the CRADLE if you want one that does.  For example, I like the end of my paddle leash to stay in one place, so I have it attached to a pad eye mounted at the rear end of the left rail.  But, I like for my rod leashes to move with the CRADLE when I slide it forward, so I attach their pad eyes directly to the sides. 

IMPORTANT - if you attach anything along the length of the right hand rail, be aware that you should put the bolt through the rail from the inside out.  Otherwise, the end of the bolt and nut will likely stick out far enough to come in contact with the TRAVEL RELEASE when you slide the Cradle and act as another TRAVEL PEG and prevent the CRADLE from moving.

Can I glue anything to the sides of the CRADLE or it's PVC base?
The sides of the CRADLE are made from marine grade Polyethylene...the same as most sit-on-top kayaks. Trust me on this, nothing will stick to polyethylene, at least not for long, so don’t bother trying to glue or epoxy anything to the sides.  Bolt it or lose it.  The BASE on the other hand is made of PVC, so yes, you can glue pretty much anything else made of PVC to the BASE using common PVC Cement.  Send us pictures if you do...we’re always interested in just what folks are doing with (to) their SLIDERS.

Aluminum POSTS - If you look closely at the J-Hook, you'll see it is attached with an aluminum post.  I use this post because it provides a low profile head on both sides.  In this case, I needed the low profile head on the inside to prevent scratching or snagging on your tackle box, and on the outside I didn't want to narrow the mouth to the J-Hook.  Look at some of the photos of my rigging and on the right side of my SLIDER you'll see my sheath knife...I used one of these posts to attach the top of the sheath.  You may find these posts handy as well, and they are for sale in the YakDaddy Store.

RAM Rod Holders - When repositioning the rod holders, you will find they rotate much more easily if you put them on the end of the standoffs with the springs.  Look at the RAM Rod Holder assembly...it has 3 parts;  the BALL MOUNT that gets bolted to the SLIDER, the STANDOFF (the spring-loaded part in the middle with the handle you loosen to release tension on the balls), and the ROD HOLDER itself.  The end of the stand-off without the spring inside should go on to the Ball mount attached to the SLIDER.  Put the ball that is a molded part of the Rod Holder in to the end with the spring. Now, when you loosen the tension handle on the rod holder, the grip on the holder itself loosens first.

TIP - If you use a smaller tackle box than usual and find that the bungee is too loose, just give the bungee a few twists before you pull it under the J-Hook.  This will tighten it up a bit.

TIP - You can use the space under the rails to secure things too.  Put J-Hooks on the rails and attach bungee to the deck to create sort of a cage to hold things under your SLIDER.

TIP - If you have the tackle box keeper adjusted so your box doesn't slide around, and the bungee adjusted properly, there is little chance it will slide out from under the bungee if you flip.  If you want an extra measure of security, pass the bungee under the handle of your tackle box before you pull it under the J-Hook.


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